Bourbon

Whiskey Review: Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Cherry Wood Smoked Barley

We review Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Cherry Wood Smoked Barley, a surprisingly savory experiment from Woodford master distiller Chris Morris.

OVERALL RATING

7
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Tasting Notes

About:

90.4 proof. Made from 30% barley. $99/750ml
Appearance:
Pours a light and sunny glowing copper color, complete with sturdy, cascading legs and a wobbly posture showing viscosity. This whiskey is quite bright and brilliant, creating an inviting air about it. Some more burnt straw highlights are hidden at the edges of the liquid.
Nose:
Immediate swirls and sniffs cause a sort of savory salivation, something umami lurks in the initial first grand whiffs. Seeking out standard vanillas and cookies and baked goods in the aroma here seems a fruitless effort, as notes of soy sauce, coriander, and salted mixed nuts leap out strongest. Something smoky is there, but less like burning embers and more like barbecue meats with a stonefruit glaze. The sweetness of the stonefruit plays off a deep brown caramel note that, between the lines, reminds the drinker that this is, indeed, a glass of bourbon.
Palate:
While the smell sets you up with the promise of salty weirdness, the taste thankfully presents itself in a more cohesive manner. The first sip is dry, roasty, heavy with minerality, and carries a pleasant astringency, not unlike an American single malt whiskey. The palate coating then pulls out more classic aromas with further sips – the nose becomes straight marshmallow once the palate adjusts to the bitterness of the actual liquid. Smokiness creeps up on you like chili burn- it is most noticeable a minute or two after sipping cessation, and is unfortunately more of a distraction than part of an inline drinking experience. The finish comes across a bit too ashy and falls in contrast to the buildup of brown sugar flavor, which also appears late sip.
Finish:
Comments:
I admire this series of experimentation and have enjoyed, or at least appreciated, every one I’ve tried in the past. Woodford’s Cherry Wood Smoked is no different, although I’d plug it squarely into the ‘appreciated’ group. It has its little pockets of brilliance and adventure, but falls slightly short on refinement and drinkability. Recommended surely for fans of drier, spicier bourbons and single malt drinkers looking for something different.rn

Editor’s Note: This whiskey was either bought as a sample by The Whiskey Wash or provided to us as a review sample by the party behind it. Per our editorial policies, this in no way influenced the outcome of this review.

Jim Bonomo

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