It was dark and rainy and the coffee shop had closed hours earlier. This, though, was a special occasion. So on a recent Saturday night, owner Kevin Bates let us inside the building and locked us in to discuss, debate, and drink whiskey.
Kevin owns a pair of coffee shops in suburban Portland, Ore., and keeps a lovingly curated wall of whiskies behind the counter alongside signs advertising bungalow blend and scones. Before I ever met Kevin, I recognized that someone at the shop was a whiskey aficionado. Not only is it uncommon to have a whiskey wall at a coffee shop, but I regularly discovered labels there that I had on my personal wish list.
About Michter’s 25 Year Old
This is a unicorn bottle – the kind enthusiasts spend years lusting after and dreaming they might find in some magical (and affordable) corner of the whiskey world. It’s as likely to go to a collector as someone who wants to drink it, or to end up at a luxury bar most of us will never have the opportunity to experience.
Verdict
Might as well cut to the chase. Kevin and I ultimately agreed that Michter’s 25 Year Old is a truly fantastic whiskey, possibly the best either of us had ever tasted. But it took us a while to get there, and we warmed up our palates with a couple of other age-statement bourbons while we spent two hours talking, among other things, about the explosion of whiskey’s popularity and what that has done to the global marketplace.
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As we talked, we poured Old Fitzgerald 13-year-old Bottled in Bond bourbon and Orphan Barrel Rhetoric 24-year-old bourbon, a treasure from the Stitzel-Weller warehouse. Both are nice whiskies, with impressive age statements of their own. Here’s the thing: Each tasted like a watery, pale imitation of bourbon next to the Michter’s. That is in no way meant to demean Old Fitz or the Orphan Barrel release. They’re wonderful. But the Michter’s is something whiskey drinkers are fortunate to ever stumble across – a bottle they’ll remember forever. Greatness in the glass.
I’ll leave aside the question of whether this bourbon, or any bourbon, is worth the price tag. What I will say is that if you have a chance to drink Michter’s 25, you should take it.
Tasting Notes: Michter’s 25 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Vital Stats: Aged at least 25 years in new American oak; mashbill not listed; 116.2 proof/58.1% alcohol by volume; $1,000 for a 750ml bottle according to the MSRP, although more likely to be found for $6,000 or more on secondary markets.
Appearance: Deep amber. Swirling it in a Glencairn Glass leaves thick legs up the sides, suggesting a whiskey with substantial mouthfeel.
Nose: Graham crackers; vanilla beans; a hint of fresh ginger. It’s warm, but – given its alcohol content – not particularly boozy.
Palate: The legs we saw when swirling it in the glass were not misleading – this is a bourbon that’s both sumptuous and silky. It’s almost like taking a bite of something rather than drinking it. Layer by layer, different flavors materialize. The wood essence comes first, which isn’t surprising for a 25-year-old bourbon: Lightly buttered toast, pecan pie bars and vanilla cake with a brown-sugar glaze. Later, almond brittle makes an appearance, along with an undercurrent of spiced apples and cinnamon. It’s a rich combination of flavors, but it comes across as balanced rather than cloying.
The finish is remarkably long. It starts spicy, holds on for an extended period of time and ends, finally, with a dollop of honey. Each time as it faded, I found myself tipping the Glencairn and hoping to find any last, additional drops.
This review was originally published in December 2020, and updated in December 2024.
